What Do Men Wear to a Black Tie Event?

There’s something timeless and captivating about a black tie event.

The moment you see those words on an invitation, you know it’s not just any gathering—it’s an evening of sophistication, style, and impeccable manners.

But for many men, the question arises: what exactly does “black tie” mean, and how do you get it just right without looking over or underdressed?

Understanding the Black Tie Dress Code

Black tie is more than just wearing a black suit—it’s a specific, formal dress code with roots in history and tradition. It represents a higher level of formality than a regular suit, but it’s not quite as strict as white tie attire.

The Origin of Black Tie Attire

The black tie tradition began in the late 19th century when men sought an evening look that was more relaxed than the rigid tailcoats of white tie dress. Over time, it evolved into the tuxedo ensemble we know today, designed for evening wear and special events.

When Black Tie is Expected

You’ll typically encounter a black tie dress code at formal weddings, gala dinners, charity balls, high-profile award ceremonies, or formal holiday parties. In these settings, the dress code helps maintain a refined, uniform aesthetic among guests.

The Core of Black Tie: The Tuxedo

When you think of black tie, the tuxedo should come to mind instantly. It’s the foundation of this dress code and the one piece that sets it apart from standard business wear.

Choosing the Right Jacket

A black tie jacket is traditionally black or midnight blue, with satin or grosgrain lapels. The lapel style can vary—shawl, peak, or notch—but shawl and peak are the most formal.

The Perfect Trousers

Trousers for black tie should match the jacket in color and fabric, often featuring a satin or grosgrain stripe down the side. They’re never cuffed, as cuffs are too casual for this level of formality.

The Essential Shirt

A black tie shirt isn’t just a white dress shirt—it has specific details that set it apart.

Shirt Front Design

Most black tie shirts have a pleated or piqué bib front, adding texture and elegance. The bib frames the bow tie and provides a formal center focal point.

Collar and Fastening Style

A classic wingtip collar or spread collar works best, depending on personal style. Shirts often use studs instead of buttons for a more refined, polished look.

The Iconic Bow Tie

A self-tied black silk bow tie is the hallmark of black tie attire.

The Importance of Self-Tying

While pre-tied bow ties exist, a self-tied version always looks more authentic and slightly unique in its imperfections. This subtle individuality adds charm to your outfit.

Color and Fabric

Traditionally, the bow tie should match the lapel’s material—usually black satin or grosgrain. Bright colors or patterns are rare in strict black tie events, but modern interpretations may allow subtle variation.

The Waist Covering

A waist covering is a detail often overlooked but vital to completing the black tie ensemble.

The Cummerbund

A cummerbund is a pleated sash worn around the waist, pleats facing upward. It adds visual balance between shirt and trousers while concealing the waistband.

The Formal Waistcoat

A low-cut waistcoat is another option, particularly for those who prefer a more structured and traditional look. Like the cummerbund, it should be made from the same material as the jacket lapels.

Footwear for Black Tie

Your shoes should be as polished as the rest of your outfit.

Patent Leather Shoes

The classic choice is black patent leather oxfords—sleek, shiny, and without unnecessary detailing.

Alternative Formal Footwear

Velvet slippers or highly polished calf leather shoes can also work, provided they maintain a formal and understated look.

Seasonal and Venue Considerations

Not all black tie events take place in the same setting or climate, and a few adjustments can be made while staying within the dress code.

Summer Black Tie

In warmer climates, a white dinner jacket paired with black trousers is acceptable, especially for outdoor evening events. The white jacket is typically made from lightweight materials like linen or tropical wool.

Cold-Weather Black Tie

In cooler months, heavier fabrics such as barathea wool provide warmth while retaining elegance. A formal overcoat in black or dark navy can be worn upon arrival.

Modern Interpretations of Black Tie

While tradition is the backbone of black tie, modern variations have emerged in recent decades.

Creative Black Tie

Some events label their dress code as “creative black tie,” allowing for subtle color variations, patterned bow ties, or unique accessories. However, the tuxedo base remains a constant.

Hollywood Red Carpet Influence

Celebrities sometimes reinterpret black tie with slim fits, velvet jackets, or unconventional colors. While these can look striking, they should be approached with caution unless the event explicitly allows for such creativity.